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Arts and Crafts, Beginner Patterns, Crochet

Crafty Sassy: Crochet Coin/Gift Card Purse (Beginner)

Posted on February 6, 2019July 3, 2019 by Katie Night

Today, we are going to learn how to make these cute little coin/gift card holders! They are very simple and easy to make, plus they are quick to put out if you are in a jam on finding a gift for someone. You can even make one for the kids use for dress up!

You can make them in all styles, but I’m going to show you how to make a quick and simple one.

What you will need?

4.0 crochet hook
Medium Size Yarn
Sewing needle
Scissors
Small Button

If you are a beginner and haven’t worked with a smaller hook, don’t worry! This hook seems small and difficult to work with, but it is not. There are a lot of smaller sizes that are much difficult to work with.

The size we are going to be making is going to be about 4 1/2 inches to maybe 5 inches across. It will be small enough to have in your purse or to hold a few cards or gift cards perfectly.

Now, the way we are making these in pieces and then sewing them together. The other opinion is to single crochet them together, which I will do in this tutorial.

Start by chaining 18.

Row 1-12: Single crochet across. Chain 1 and turn.

Keep single crocheting until it reaches the length you want it to be. If you are making a gift card holder, keep in mind that cards are about 2 1/5 inches long.

So, what I am doing, I am crocheting 3 inches, placing a marker, and then crocheting another 3 inches. About 12 rows or so.

Row 13: Double crochet across. Chain 1 and turn.

Row 14: Double crochet together across. Chain 1 and turn.

Row 15: Single crochet across and make sure that you have 8 stitches, this is needed to make the buttonhole for the next row. Chain 1 and turn.

Row 16: Single crochet together in the first two stitches. Half double crochet in the next. Double crochet in the next and in that same stitch, make a treble crochet. Chain 3. In the next stitch, make a treble crochet. In that same stitch, make a double crochet. In the next stitch, a half double crochet. Single crochet together in the last two stitches.

Then, single crochet around the entire piece, making two extra single crochet stitches in the corners. This isn’t necessary, but it makes the project look neater.

Fasten off.

Repeat the first step and fasten off.

Place both parts and lay them over each other. Grab the same crochet hook and start to single crochet the three sides together. If you aren’t sure how to do this, you can always just hand-sew the three sides together. Whatever you are comfortable! I will be doing this in a different color.

There you have it! Don’t forget to check out my Facebook page to watch me on how to single crochet this all together!

Arts and Crafts

Basic Stitches & Terms Should Know For Crocheting

Posted on December 20, 2018 by Katie Night

I was a beginner to crocheting, in the beginning of the year, but I got hooked into it the moment I first learned how to crochet. I thought it was going to be very difficult to pick up, unlike knitting, which my grandmother taught me to do.

If you are interested in learning how to crochet, please keep reading! There were a lot to learn and a lot of different terms. I do consider myself still a ‘beginner’, but I do know most of the stitches and terms, which I have learned over time.

First thing is first, if you are a true beginner, I suggest getting a set of crochet hooks. The first set I ever bought was on Wish, but if you don’t want to wait weeks on end for stuff, you can find a set on Amazon for about $10-$15. Some sets will even come with markers, tape measures, plastic needles, scissors, and some other stuff as well!

If you don’t have the extra money to buy a set, you can always go to your local craft store or Walmart, and get the following:

Crochet Hook
- Start with a 5.0mm hook. Most projects require this size and it is also the size I am going to use to show you each stitch.
Yarn Size 4 (Medium)
- If you are unsure what size the yarn is, you can always check on the back of the yarn label, and it will tell you what size it is. It also tells you what hook it ‘recommends’ to use, but most crocheting projects use this type of yarn.
Markers
- Markers aren’t really needed, but are very helpful for marking when your stitches begin and end.
- You don’t necessary need the actually crocheting stitch markers, you can use a paper clip, bobby pin, or anything that is small enough for you to use for crocheting. You can check out the picture and see what I mean.
Sewing Needle
- You will always need a sewing needle for every project you do. When a project is finished, you use them to sew in the ‘unwanted’ strands from the beginning, middle and end of your project.
- Doesn’t matter what size you use for a yarn needle, a basic size works for most projects and you can also find a pack of needles that has different sizes on Amazon or your local craft store.
Scissors
- You will also always need scissors, for all your projects, to cut off any loose ends. I suggest getting embroidery scissors because they are small and easy to travel with.
- Normal pair of scissors works fine as well.

Now that you have an idea of what you are going to need, let’s talk about some stitch and abbreviation terms, before starting to crochet. I have created a mini ‘cheat sheet’, for you beginners, which will also be posted on all of my social medias. If you were to look at the entire list of crochet abbreviations, your head might spin, so that is why I’m breaking it down for the new comers.

The reason why we use ‘abbreviations’ for crocheting, is that some of the terms, that are used, are very long and it would make the pattern, we are reading, very difficult to understand. Most crochet books have a page or two, on what the abbreviations mean and how to do that particular type of stitch.

There are other terms that aren’t listed in crochet books. If you join a crochet group on Facebook, some of them, in the group, will use different terms that aren’t really in the crochet books, or the ones that I have.

Here are a list of ‘slang’ crochet terms, that some people might use, that aren’t necessary in the crochet books:

Ami – Short for Amingurumi.
- Amingurumi are the stuffed animals that you can crochet and make, they just aren’t called ‘stuffed animals’.
BiStitchtual – Someone who crochets and knits.
- I’ve never heard this term before, I don’t think anyone has really used this term, but then again, I haven’t come across someone saying it or calling themselves it.
C2C – Corner to Corner.
- C2C are blankets that you make, using a grid or graph.
CAL – Crochet Along,
De-stash – Selling or giving away yarn you stash.
- Most people who do this are ones that might have a lot of yarn just sitting around. Since some brands of yarn are very pricey, you might get them cheaper from someone else who isn’t using them.
FO – Finished object.
FOTH – Fresh off the hook.
Freehand – Making a project without following a pattern.
- Lots of experience people make these, while writing the pattern as they go. When you become more advance, this is something a lot of people do to make money from crocheting, by selling their patterns.
Frogging – Ripping out rows or rounds of crochet (Ribbit, Ribbit)
- I have done this so many times. Especially if I find I missed a stitch or it doesn’t look ‘neat’ and ‘pretty’. You’ll be doing it too!
HOTH – Hot off the hook.
Hooker – A proud and happy crocheter.
HSPY – Haven’t started project yet.
ISO – In search of.
- If you are in search of a pattern, particular yarn brand, stitch, or any supplies that have to do with crocheting, most groups on Facebook, can be helpful to help you find what you are looking for.
JOTH – Just off the hook.
LYS – Local or little yarn store.
MAM – Mile a minute afghan.
MGBTC – Must get back to crocheting.
OCD – Obsessive crocheting disorder.
- Once you get the hang of it, you’ll want to keep going and try different patterns and projects.
PABLE – Pattern accumulation beyond life expectancy.
PHD – Projects half done.
PIGS – Projects in grocery sacks.
PTP – Permission to post.
- Some use these word for posting on social media or sharing it on their personal social media, or blogging sites.
- This is VERY important to know because if you buy a pattern, most creators do NOT want you to post it on another website or share it with anyone, unless they bought it.
SABLE – Stash accumulation beyond life expectancy.
STASH – Special treasures all secretly hidden meant to be discovered unexpectedly.
TALC – Take along crochet.
TIA – Thank you in advance.
TOAD – Trashed object abandoned in disgust.
UFO – Unfinished object.
USO – Unstarted object.
Yarn Cakes – The small skeins of yarn that result from using a yarn winder.
WIM – Work in mind.
WIP – Work in progress.
- A lot of crocheters will use this term.
WIVSP – Work in very slow progress.
YAP – Yet another project.
Yarn Barf – The tangled mess of yarn from the center of a skein.
- This happens to me, because I usually use the center string for when I crochet. I love using it because I know have to unravel yarn, but it can be a pain in the ass to unravel, when you use the middle string.
Yarn Bomb – A decorative piece of crocheted or knitted art that is strung up in a public place.
YART – Yarn acquisition road trip.

Make sure to follow my blog for more beginner posts on crocheting! I will be breaking down everything in little parts and I will also have videos for you to view, if you find it easier to understand and learn!

I also go live on my Facebook page on Tuesdays! Check it out and don’t forget to like it, so you can stay in the loop for whenever I post a blog post or go live!
https://www.facebook.com/katiesblog96971617/

Arts and Crafts

Crafty Sassy: How To Make Bigger Coaster Sizes

Posted on December 12, 2018February 25, 2019 by Katie Night

Since I have explored more on Pinterest, I can upon this beautiful peppermint coaster. The Purple Poncho was nice enough to make this pattern free for us to use, here is the original link to the coaster here:

https://www.thepurpleponcho.com/peppermint-coasters-free-crochet-pattern/

So, with that in mind, all credit goes to her and a big thanks goes out to her for making this pattern completely free to use!

However, as lovely as this pattern is, I had one problem with it. It wasn’t big enough for my ‘standards’, which is why I am going to tell you how to make the coaster bigger. If you are like me and have giant coffee mugs, the original pattern is too small. The pattern, in my view, is more for wine glasses or just for decoration.

This also might work for some other coaster patterns as well, as long as it has the same ‘basic beanie circle’ idea, then it should work, as long as you use the correct stitch for the project.

I’ll be using the peppermint coaster pattern as an example. After you have checked out the pattern and read through the rounds, after round 4, you start making that beautiful ‘peppermint’ design. Before you start with that design, let’s make it bigger.

This is called ‘increasing stitches’, which you can or do for most projects that require it, or you choose to do so. It’s very simple to do, but can be confusing.

Round 5: Ch 2, make 1 half double crochet (hdc) in the first stitch, then 2 half double crochet (hdc) in the next 2 stitches. Make 2 half double crochet (hdc) in the next stitch (meaning you make 2 half double crochet’s in the same stitch. Repeat.

Just keep adding a single half double crochet stitch (or the type of stitch that you are working on.) to each new row, until you feel like it is where you want the size to be. Then follow the next step in the peppermint boarder.

Does this work with all coaster patterns?

No, it does work for this pattern because this started out like we were going to make a simple basic beanie. Every coaster is different, but depending what it is, you can always figure it out or as the creator if they know how to fix it to be smaller or larger to what you are looking for.

I did go live on showing you how to make the peppermint coaster, if you would like to check that out, visit my Facebook page and don’t forget to like my page, so that you can know when I next go live or for any of my free giveaways. It is also the best place to find updates for my blog.

https://www.facebook.com/katiesblog96971617/

Arts and Crafts, Beginner Patterns, Crochet

Crafty Sassy: How to Crochet a Basic Headband (Beginners)

Posted on September 25, 2018July 3, 2019 by Katie Night

So, there was a tie on my Facebook page on whether I should make the Rose or the Headband, but since the headband has been in the last few polls, I figured I would show you how to make one.

Now, I haven’t mastered this pattern completely, but it is a very fun pattern to make! Especially, if you are a beginner. The Rose actually goes with this headband, so I figure we can make the headband and I then can show you how to make the rose and show you how to put it on, as well.

As always, let’s talk about the supplies you will need:

Medium Yarn (Color of your choice)
- I decided to used the ‘I Love This Yarn’ multi-color yarn to show you guys what it should look like.
5.0 mm Crochet Hook
And of course, a sewing needle!

So let’s get started!

Step 1: Chain 44. Now, found it easier to count out loud, while making the chains, just so I don’t lose track of how many chains I made.

Step 2: Make 2 double crochet’s in the 3rd chain from the hook(NOT counting the chain that the hook is on!). *Skip 2 chains, single crochet in the next chain. Chain 2. Make 2 double crochets in that same stitch.* Repeat until you reach the other end, then make a single crochet in that last chain.

Note: The * represent where you start and end. Basically, you are repeating the same step until you reach the end. I will be putting in * to help you know what you need to do! A lot of crochet books use them and they are very helpful! If you are stuck or need help, let me know down in the comments!

Step 3: Chain 2 and turn your work. Make 2 double crochets in the next available stitch. *Single crochet in the chain-2 part of the work. Chain 2. Make 2 double crochets in that same space.* Repeat until you reach to the other side and then single crochet the top of the last row.

Step 4: Repeat Step 3. Twice. You should have 4 rows altogether.

Step 5: Chain 30. Then slip stitch to the opposite side of your project. Slip stitch across that small side and then chain 30. Slip stitch to the other side and slip stitch across that side. Once you are done, cut your yarn and pull your crochet hook up and pull that end piece of yarn tight.

Step 6: Sew in any yarn that is hanging around and then you are done!

Note: If your headband does not fit, you can always 4 chains add or decrease 4 chains, to fit your size head. If you are looking for it to fit a baby or child’s head, this might not be the project for that, but you can try and make it work!

For Example: If the headband was too small, I would chain 48. If the headband was too big, I would chain 40.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask me! I’ll try my best to help you out!

Also, don’t forget to check out my Facebook page, I have a poll up every week on what project I should do next! Since Halloween is just around the corner, be prepared to be Spooked!
https://www.facebook.com/katiesblog96971617/

Arts and Crafts, Beginner Patterns, Crochet

Crafty Sassy: How To Crochet Mug Cozies (Beginners)

Posted on September 18, 2018July 3, 2019 by Katie Night

Hey dearies! So, today I am going to tell you how to make these super cute mug cozies! Since summer is slowly starting to change into fall, I figured I would show you how to make these cozies, which are perfect for giving away, with mugs, as a gift for the holidays!

This was also the winner for me to make on this weeks Facebook Live! If you don’t know anything about that, scroll all the way down for more information about it!

Image result for mug cozy

As always, before we begin a project, let’s talk about the stuff you’ll need:

Medium Yarn (a color of your choice)
Crochet Hook 4.5mm or a 7 in U.S
A button of your choice
As always, a sewing needle

Let’s begin!

Step 1: Make a slip knot onto your crochet hook and chain 8.

Step 2: Single crochet and double crochet in the 2nd chain from the hook. Remember, we are NOT counting the chain that is on the hook itself.

Step 3: Skip the next chain and then single crochet and double crochet in the same chain. Repeat this til you are at the end of row 1. Chain 1 and turn your work.

Step 4: Skip the next stitch and do a single crochet and a double crochet in the next stitch. Repeat til the end of the row. Chain 1 and turn your work. Repeat this step until your work measures 8 in., from the beginning of your work.

Step 5: Skip the first stitch and slip stitch in the next 2 stitches. Then do 1 half double crochet in the next 4 stitches. Chain 1 and turn your work.

Step 6: Now, we are going to work on the buttonhole strip for the next 4 stitches. Do 1 half double crochet in each stitch. Chain 1 and turn your work. Repeat this step until your buttonhole strip measures 2 in. long.

You can always put a marker, if this helps with keeping track from where the buttonhole strip starts, you don’t need to do this, but it can help with making sure it’s measured correctly.

Step 7: Do 1 half double crochet in the first stitch. Chain 2. Skip the next 2 stitches. Make 1 half double crochet in the last stitch.

Step 8: This step, is for making a boarder around the project. Work a single crochet stitch evenly around. Working 3 single crochets in the corners and 2 single crochets in the chain 2 buttonhole space. Join them all with a slip stitch in the first single crochet from where you started.

Step 9: Fasten off the extra strands into your project and sew on your button! Then you are done!

*Tip* – For attaching the button, wrap your cozy around your mug so you can see where you want to put the button. Mark it with a pin, thread your needle and sew on the button, making sure to remove the pin. You don’t have to do this, but it was very helpful for me!

I will be going LIVE on my Facebook page, showing you how to do this. If you haven’t already liked my Facebook page, please do! I give updates on my blog and YouTube channel.

I also post polls on what I should make next on my Facebook page, and which ever one wins, I go live and show you how to make them!

Check out the link!
https://www.facebook.com/katiesblog96971617/

Arts and Crafts, Beginner Patterns, Crochet

Crafty Sassy: How To Crochet A Granny Square (Beginner)

Posted on September 11, 2018July 3, 2019 by Katie Night

Today, we are going to talk about the most basic and easier square you can crochet. Granny square can be used to make mini squares, or one giant square! We are going to make a small, simple one.

I am going to point out that everyone has their way of crocheting the granny square. So, if you don’t think it looks right or you don’t like that pattern, then you can always search and find a pattern that works for you!

So, one of my kinda BIG crocheting projects, was the giant rasta color granny square, that I am making for my fiance. Its’ basically a giant granny square. It’s not done, but the bigger it gets, the more difficult it can be on your wrists.

Let’s talk about what you will need:

Medium Yarn (If you want, you can choice multiple colors, but I will be using just one solid color, to make it easier for you.)
- Remember: If you are a beginner, try to stay away from dark colors.
Crochet Hook: 5.5mm
- For the hook, it doesn’t have to be that size, but I found it was easier to work with in the video I watched.
Sewing Needle

Now that we having everything we need, we can get this project started!

Step 1: We are going to create a slip knot and pull tightly onto our hook. We are then going to chain 6. Then slip stitch the other end of the chain.

Step 2: Now that we have our circle, we are going to start by chaining 3 (Remember: This counts as 1 double crochet.) Then we are going to double crochet 2 times into the circle. I left a picture done below, just in case you need a refresher.

Step 3: Now, we are going to crochet 3 double crochets in the ring and then chain 3. Do that 2 more times. You should have something like this.

Slip stitch in the top of the chain to fasten off the base of the granny square.

Step 4: Now we are going to create the second row of the granny square. You can add on another color, if you would like, I’ll leave a picture down below showing how you can do that.

Chain 3. (Remember: This will count as our first double crochet!) I always turn my work, but because this is a granny square, you don’t have to turn your work. We are going to now working in the open space with the following:
-Work 2 double crochets. Chain 3. Work 3 double crochets. Chain 1.

Step 5: 3 double crochet, chain 3, 3 double crochet, chain 1, into each space. Slit stitch to finish the second row.

Depending on how big you want your square to be, you are basically repeating steps 2-5.

I will be going live on my Facebook page, if you want to see it done. Make sure to like my page and follow me for more updates on when I post any posts on my blog or for when I go live! Here is the link:
https://www.facebook.com/katiesblog96971617/

I will be working on a video tutorial and create another blog post for those who aren’t beginners and just want the simple pattern.

I’m going to leave this link down below, if you would like to see a slowed down version of the granny square that helped me when I first started to learn how to make one. The Nervous Knitter is amazing and you should check out her other videos:

Arts and Crafts, Beginner Patterns, Crochet

Crafty Sassy: How To Make A Towel Topper (For Beginners)

Posted on August 28, 2018July 3, 2019 by Katie Night

Today, I’m going to try to teach you guys how to make these simple towel toppers. My great-grandmother has been making these for years and we always had a few of these hanging around the house. To this day, she still makes them, but not as much as she used to.

I am basing this pattern off of what I have seen on YouTube, other free patterns that they have on the internet, and going by one of her towels. I have NOT perfected this pattern. My great-grandmother never really wrote down her pattern or anything like that, she is one of those ‘make it as you go’ type of crocheters.

I will make a better blog post on the towel topper, but for now, I’m gonna show you how I managed to make my first one.

So, first thing first, lets list off the supplies you will need for this project:

Kitchen Towel
- Any type of towel you can use, but use one with more of a thickness, it makes it easier to work with, in my opinion.
Medium or Size 4 Yarn
- Chose a color that would match with your towel design, if it has any. Try not to chose black, it is harder to work with, same with darker colors.
Button
- I chose to get a pack of white big (not giant) buttons. White matches with mostly anything, and for this being my first towel, I figured it would be easier to work with. You can chose whatever color buttons that you think would fit for your towel, as long as they aren’t the small buttons.
Sewing Needle
- Normal sewing needle, nothing really special. It can help with poking holes through the towel.
Crochet hooks: 2.25mm and a 4.5mm
- These are the hooks I used, I might change the sizes, but the reason why you need two is the smaller one will be for bring the yarn through the towel itself, while the other one will be for the actual crochet part of the towel.

Now that you know what you need, let’s begin!

Step 1: Take the towel, you have chosen to use and fold it in half, hamburger fold, if that makes it easier to visualize. Cut the towel in half.

The reason for this is that if you have a long kitchen towel with the same design, on each side, you’ll be able to make two different towels.

Image result for kitchen towels

Step 2: This next step is going to be a little tricky. You can use the sewing needle to help poke holes in the top of the towel, I found that easier than taking the small crochet hook (2.25mm) and poking it through.

Once you poke your crochet hook through and pull through you yarn. Then, you are going to yarn over and pull through both loops, basically doing a slip stitch.

You repeat this step until you reach the other side of the towel.

*Remember to try not make your holes too close or too far apart. A few of the videos that I watched recommend being a quarter of an inch away from the top of the towel and from your last stitch, or hole you made. It doesn’t have to be exact, but whatever works for you.*

Step 3: Turn your work over. Now, we are going to switch our crochet hook, switch to the 4.5mm. Chain 1.

We are going to double crochet in between each of the stitches of the towel. You are going to keep doing that until you reach the other side of the towel.

*How to double crochet*

For this project, you are going to yarn over, go through or in between the stitches and then yarn over again, go through the first two loops, yarn over and go through the last two loops.

Image result for double crochet stitch

Step 4: You are going to repeat Step 3, for this next row. Instead of going in between the stitches, you are going to go in between each double crochet that we made in the first row of double crochets.

Once you reach to the other side, turn your work over and chain 1.

Step 5: For this next row, we are going to still double crochet, but we are going to skip every other one. For your first double crochet, you are going to double crochet in the first spot, but skip the one next to it.

You keep going until you reach the other side. Make sure to turn your working and chain 1.

Step 6: Repeat Step 5, making sure to skip every other one. Once you reach to the other end of the towel, turn your work and chain 1.

Step 7: As you can see, the towel topper is now starting to become smaller, which is what we want it to do. Now, we are going to repeat Step 3, making sure we double crochet into each one. When you get to the other side, turn your work and chain 1.

Step 8: Repeat Step 3. Turn work over and chain 1.

You are going to repeat Step 3, and making sure you turn your work when done that row and chaining 1. For the next 5 rows.

Step 9: Once you are done double crocheting those last 5 rows, it is now time to finish off the project and make the opening for the button to go through.

Now, everyone does this differently, but I am going to do it differently from what my great-grandmother does.

After you turned your work and chained one, you are going to do 2 double crochets. Chain 2. Skip the next 2 stitches. Then do 3 double crochets.

Step 10: This is the last row we are going to crochet. So, make sure you turn your work and chain 1. We are basically going to double crochet, for the last row.

When you get to the open space, you are going to double crochet twice in that opening.

We you get to the end, bind off by cutting the yarn you were working on and pull your crochet out, don’t remove the crochet hook from the loop, pull it up, so that the yarn is bind off.

Step 11: The last step is simple, all you have to do is sew the button into the middle of the project, just like shown in the picture above. Then it is complete!

Like I said in the beginning, I will have a better post, when I have mastered a pattern and will update you guys on it. These towels have been a gift for any event or celebration. I love having these because you can hook in on your stove handle, especially if you have one made for the theme for your kitchen.

If you are intersected in learning how to do this, I will be going LIVE on my Facebook page, tonight! Like my Facebook page, because I do post all my blog posts on their, as well as my twitter. Click the link below:
https://facebook.com/katiesblog96971617/

Arts and Crafts, Beginner Patterns, Crochet

Crafty Sassy: How To Make A Heart-Shape Bookmark (For Beginners)

Posted on August 21, 2018July 3, 2019 by Katie Night

This project, that I’m about to show you, is a very simple to make and is great for beginners, just like myself! I’m going to break down each step with pictures, and explain the process a little easier for you! I will also have a YouTube video in the makes for those who prefer videos to learn from.

First things first, let’s talk about what items you will need:

Meduim (Size 4) Yarn
- If you are a beginner, I suggest working with light colors than dark ones. Lighter colors you will be able to see a bit better than dark colors.
- Also, you will need 2 different colors, one for the heart and one for the stem, but if you want to stick with the same color, that is fine as well.
Crochet Hook: 4.5 mm/U.S. 7
Sewing Needle

Next, I will let you know what type of stitches that are involved with this stitch, I find it useful to know what kind of stitches the project requires, so that I can practice or get to know the stitches before hand:

Chain stitch (ch)
Double Crochet (dc)
Treble Crochet (tr)
Slip Stitch (sl st)
Small or Large Picot (For the stem)

I also what to remind you that if the first time you make this, it doesn’t come out perfect, that’s okay! It takes a lot of time and practice to make your projects come our perfect.

*Remember: You can always push your work back, if you feel you don’t have enough room to work your stitches in.*

Step 1: Make a magic circle. (Down below I have a slide show on how to make a magic circle. However way you make a magic circle, is totally up to you! This was how I learned to make them.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Step 2: Now that we have our magic circle, we can begin! Chain 4 (ch).

Step 3: Next, you will need to crochet 2 tr (Treble Crochet) into the circle. If you don’t know what a treble crochet is, here is a picture that can help you out with that!

Step 4: Double crochet (dc) into the circle 3 times. Down below will be a picture on how to double crochet.

Step 5: Chain 1 (ch).

Step 6: 1 Treble Crochet (tr) into the circle. (You can look back up to the picture if you forget.)

Step 7: Chain 1 (ch).

Step 8: Double crochet (dc) into the circle 3 times. (You can look back up to the picture if you forget.)

Step 9: Treble crochet (tr) into the circle 3 times.

Step 10: Chain 3 (ch).

Step 11: Make a slip stitch (sl st) into the circle to secure your work.

That’s how you make the heart part of the circle. The next part is the stem or the actually bookmark itself. This might be difficult, so I’m going to try my best to explain it.

Step 12: Make a slip stitch (sl st) into the heart circle with a different color, or with the same color.

Step 13: Chain 42 (ch), or however long you would like it to be. You can make it longer or shorter, but I would stick to chaining 42, just so you can see how long or short you might want it to be.

Step 14: Count from your hook the 6th chain and make a slip stitch (sl st) into that 6th stitch.

Step 15: Then you are going to slip stitch (sl st) into each chain, until you reach the 6th chain.

Step 16: Now, we are going to make a small picot. Chain 3 (ch), insert your hook into the 3rd chain from your hook, the first chain that you made if it is a little easier for you. Then, yarn over and pull through all the loops.

Step 17: Repeat Step 15 and slip stitch (sl st) into each chain until you reach the 6th chain.

Step 18: We are going to now do a large picot. It’s basically the same thing as a small, but you just chain more. So, chain 5 (ch), insert your hook into the 5th chain from your hook. Then, yarn over and pull through all the loops.

Step 19: Repeat Step 15.

Step 20: Repeat Step 16.

Step 21: Repeat Step 15

Step 22: Repeat Step 17.

Step 23: Slip Stitch (sl st) all the way up til you reach the heart and slip stitch into the middle of the hole, in the heart and you are done!

Here is what the finished product should look like! Mine isn’t perfect, but no one’s will be perfect the first time. Practice makes perfect!

*If you have already liked my Facebook page, I will be going LIVE tonight on my Facebook page showing how to make this! If you are interested, here is the link to my Facebook page! Please like and don’t forget to share!
https://facebook.com/katiesblog96971617/

Arts and Crafts

Crafty Sassy: How To Make A Latch Hook Pillow/Pillow Case (My Version)

Posted on July 10, 2018July 10, 2018 by Katie Night

Image result for latch hook pillow

Good Morning all of my dearies! So, I figured I would show you how I make my latch hook pillows. I have already done a tutorial on the latch hook, and how simple and easy it is to do.

Now, I did this all on my own, I didn’t find this online, I came up with the idea because of the fact that some of the latch hooks were too amazing to just have as a rug. So, I figured that I would make a latch hook and turn it into a pillow. Not all of my latch hook pillows are perfect, I haven’t really mastered it, but I try to be better than the last time.

These are great gifts for family or friends, I would say for everyone, but it depending on the size of the latch hook and making the backing, it can be a very long process. The quickest that I was able to do, was about 2 months, but that was a small foot by foot latch hook. If you have kids, expect the project to take longer.

So, first things first, you need to have the following supplies:

Latch Hook kit
- If you are a beginner, I recommend with starting out with a small latch hook, a foot by foot one would be perfect to start on and it won’t take as long as a bigger one.
Yarn (Medium)
- The backing I just basically knitting small squares together or two long parts that I end up sewing together. The color can be any color you want it to be, as long as it is medium thickness and somewhat matches your latch hook.
- I would try and get two yarn rolls, just to start out, but do keep in mind that you will also need it to sew the pillow together.
- *Note* Try and avoid black yarn, especially if you are a beginner, black yarn is very hard to work with. Dark colors might be okay, but try and avoid them, if you are just starting out.
Metal Thick Needle
- You’ll need this to sew your pillow together, or pillow case. I recommend using a thicker needle (Not talking about knitting needles!), the reason is because it will make it easier to sew them together. Plus, with the thinner needles, you can tend to break them, believe me, I have broken a few.
Scissors
Knitting Needles
- Make sure that you have the knitting needles suggested size, it is on the yarn roll and suggests a size.
Rug Binding
- This you will used around the sides for the latch hook, making sure that it doesn’t fall apart when finished.
Fabric Glue
- I found that it was easier to use fabric glue to keep the rug binding together. You can use an iron, but I have tried and It didn’t work, I’m not sure if I did it right or not.
Stuffing (for making a pillow)
- You can stuff it and then close it, or if you or anyone you are giving the latch hook pillow has any pets, I would take a pillow case and fill it and then put it into the pillow. It’s totally up to you.

Once you have everything, that I have suggested to have, you can finally start! First, before we can begin our pillow, we need to complete the latch hook, first. This might be the longest part that you need to do to make this pillow.

Then, knit the backing, you can either knit a classic square, or make it longer and have different pieces that you end up sewing together. Whatever is easier for you to do, I found that the squares were easier, depending how big your latch hook is, it made it easier to see the progress versus just knitting a long part.

The reason why we should make the latch hook first, is because once we trim it down, it will be easier to measure or know how long or wide you need to go. Some latch hooks don’t have a printed picture on them, some of them are blank and give you a big blank latch hook, just to make sure that you have enough to make the latch hook.

That’s only with the bigger latch hooks, a since foot by foot is usually has a printed design on it, so that you can follow the pattern.

After both parts are completely, just sew them onto the latch hook, making sure that you cover the latch hook grid. If you are making a pillow case, only sew around it, leave the top untouched, so that you are able to place a pillow into the opening.

It should, almost look like the picture above, this was a project that I made for my aunt for her birthday. Her favorite Disney princess is Belle, so I made her a small foot by foot pillow.

This latch hook, I got from Hobby Lobby, but I am pretty sure you can find it on Amazon, you might be lucky and find it at Walmart, but I wouldn’t get your hopes up. This latch hook did not have a grid, with the picture, so that you can follow it on key.

The picture was printed on the latch hook and I made the best judgement for each one. The background isn’t green, it’s purple, I changed it to my aunt’s favorite color, instead. Another note, for this latch hook, the yarn is SUPER thick and was a pain in the ass to hook on.

However, the yarn I used for the background was a simple medium yarn, what most latch hooks use, so I was glad that the background wasn’t as difficult to do.

Next Tuesday, I have a surprise! I am going to show you how to make a book mark! Not just any kind of book mark, a crochet-made bookmark!

Arts and Crafts

Crafty Sassy: How To Loom Knit A Scarf (Figure 8 Stitch)

Posted on July 3, 2018July 3, 2018 by Katie Night

Happy Tuesday to all my crafters! Today, I’m going to take you step-by-step on how to loom knit a basic scarf. I’m going to break it down, just in case some others go way too fast.

Now, I am going to be using a solid blue color yarn, I figured using a plan color would be easier to focus on. I’m also using a medium size yarn, which is a basic yarn that you would get from the craft store.

If you don’t have a looming set or kit, you can buy them on Amazon, Walmart, or your local craft store. The one I have is the KB Tadpole Loom, I got this from either Walmart or Kmart. It comes with the loom set and a little booklet, that shows you how to 8 different thinks with the loom.

So, first thing is first, we need to create a slip knot. Now, if you don’t know what a slip knot is, that’s okay because I am going to explain it too you. A slip knot is a basic knot that is used for knitting, crocheting, looming, etc, projects. I basically holds the start of your work together.

A lot of people do a slip knot differently, you don’t have to do it my way, but I would look on how other’s make a slip knot and choose whatever makes you comfortable. Here is a quick visual on how I make a slip knot:

Find the start of your yarn and hold on to it. I have used this yarn before, as you can see. If you are using a brand new yarn, you can either find the start of it by grabbing the middle string, that might be sticking out, or look around the yarn and see if you can find the other end. Personally, I rather grab from the outside, because mostly every time that I grab onto the middle and pull, sometimes it be in a knot.
Wrap the yarn around your finger, leaving a enough space in between them. See photo below:
Next, you are going to pull the first yarn over the second yarn, like this, see below:
Then, you are going to pull the end of the yarn, so that it’s tight, not too tight on your finger, though.
1. - And there you have your slip knot!

Now that we have a slip knot, we can begin! So, take the slip knot off of your finger and place it on one of the end pegs, and tighten it, not too tight, though. Like shown below:

What we need to do next is wrap the yarn around the pegs. Pay very close attention to how we do the figure 8 stitch.

It will look tricky at first, but it’s very simple, just make sure that you are wrapping each and every peg, as shown in the picture above. Once you get to the other side, see below, go back and re-wrap all the pegs, using the same stitch that you just did.

When you finish wrapping all the pegs again, your work should look like this, if I explained it well enough. This is the top view:

Here is what the side view will look like:

If you haven’t already noticed, that there was one peg that was only wrapped once. That is okay! It is supposed to be like that. Every time that you wrap them a second time, there will always be one that isn’t wrapped twice.

Now, because this loom doesn’t have a end peg that you can wrap around, I wrapped the yarn around the side of my loom, because if you don’t, your work will come undone. That is the only down fall with this loom, it doesn’t have a place to wrap your yarn.

Anyway, here comes the more difficult part. You will need your hook for this step. Take your hook and grab, from the first set of yarn that we cased on, you are going to pull it over the peg and over the second yarn. Note: It doesn’t matter which side you start on, but which every one you decide to start on, finish it before moving on to the other side.

You keep doing this, on the side you are working on, it should look like this, when you finish your first side.

It’s okay if they are a little loose, most of them will end up in the middle anyway, so it’s okay that they don’t, at first.

Once you have completed the other side, your work should look like this:

Then, just gently push the middle of your work down and recast another figure 8 stitch, until you get it to the length you desire. I have added a chart, for the average lengths, but if you want a scarf that fits perfect, for you or whoever you are making it for. Hold you arms out side and have someone measure from fingertip to fingertip, that will give you the exact length you need.

Image result for scarf sizes

How To End Your Work

I don’t have any pictures on how to cast off, so I am going to explain the best I can. I will be making a YouTube video about this blog post and will attach, once it is uploaded. I will make sure to have pictures, as well.

Basically, you’ll be transforming one side to the other and then binding off. So, grab your hook and take one of your yarn, from your first peg, and wrap it around the peg across from that peg. Note: I’m pretty sure you can start from either side, when you bind off. But don’t quote me on it.

Once you have finished that, and got to the final hook, your work should just come off and you should be all set.

There you have it! I’m sorry if I didn’t explain it a little better. I will be making a video on how to do it, as soon as possible and I will edit at this post, once I do! If you have any ideas or want me to try out something new, let me know in a comment or send me an e-mail at katie_farrington@aol.com!

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